Fashion Review: 2023 Oscars

The Oscar film nominees didn't inspire much passion from me this year. In most films I saw, there were spectacular performances but the movies themselves felt uneven and indulgently long. So, what I lack in enthusiasm for the nominees themselves, I'll have to apply to the FASHION! And thankfully, there were some dazzling looks last night.

The show itself had some beautiful moments (I'm still crying about Ke Huy Quan's journey) but it also had a huge misstep, which was a CHAMPAGNE carpet. Some things about the Oscars need fixing, but none of those things was the red carpet. Can you imagine how dirty and gross this thing got? If there's one organization that needs to be the standard-bearer for red carpets, it's the Academy.

BEST-DRESSED

Angela Bassett, Oscar winner of my heart, serially robbed Queen of the Screen, at least takes the trophy for Best Dressed in my book. She wore — as she well should — the color of royalty in this exquisitely draped Moschino gown. Her hair was bouncy like Rita Hayworth's, and she had the It accessory of the 2023 awards circuit, the diamond snake necklace. She's glowing.

I don't really know how I got in a situation where I'm routinely ranking Cara Delavingne as a best-dressed actress, but here we are. Her Elie Saab gown is over-the-top, but in a way that understands the assignment. Gorgeous shade of scarlet, big Angelina Jolie leg energy, fabulous diamonds and perfect hair all scream OSCARS.

It isn't easy to straddle that line of sexy, classic and edgy, but Lady Gaga did it so well in this Atelier Versace that marries Hitchcockian elegance with sharp angles fit for Morticia Addams. I love that she did the heavy make-up of a Robert Palmer band member in "Addicted to Love." The sheer back dipped down to her bottom, giving it made-you-look playfulness.

By virtue of her marriage to fashion businessman Francois-Henri Pinault, Salma Hayek should, theoretically, have the best access to luxury fashion houses of almost any actress. And yet, her fashion outings in recent years have been underwhelming. Not so at the 2023 Oscars, where she strided in like a phoenix rising from the ashes, smoking embers shimmering in her wake. Bronze sequins, fringe and a halter are all she needed to soar to the top.

If you're a total newcomer to Oscars fashion, this is what you wear: billowing highlighter pink satin tucked into a bubble hem with an on-trend corset by Valentino. This color is so dreamy on Stephanie Hsu.

I like that Allison Williams' look took some real swings for the fences, and it has the glamour and element of surprise I'm looking for at these events. Her Giambattista Valli outfit has something to see from every angle — the sheer gown would be notable enough for its feather hem, but topping it off with this cherry blossom pink voluminous cape makes it feel like opening night at the opera in the Maria Callas days. I love the drama.

Nicole Kidman, out here slinking down carpets for 30+ years like it ain't no thang. She makes it looks exceptionally easy to wear giant flowers, high slits, and one sleeve in this Armani Prive. What I actually like best about this look is her no-fuss hair. She looks very modern.

Jessica Chastain has really figured out the exact right style team, including a fruitful working relationship with Gucci that consistently makes her one of the best dressed. As a presenter and recent winner, she chose wisely with this big-impact silver sequin number trimmed in black that doesn't steal the show, but is definitely a knockout. It's fit for the modern equivalent of an Old Hollywood star.

Silver sequins were everywhere! I also love this flutter-sleeve and tulle-trimmed Rodarte version on Kate Hudson. It was SO shimmery on camera, which is really the goal, if we're being honest.

This hooded sequin gown by Ralph Lauren on Malala!!!! She is so fabulously glamorous, and somehow still has her head on her shoulders and clear eyes on her goals. I love her.

Michelle Yeoh went very Oscars classic in this feather-trimmed, ruffled gown fit for an angel by Dior Haute Couture. It's a little bit on the safe side, but I do really love the ethereal way it moves.

GOOD

THIS is what a presenter looks like. Emily Blunt looked so chic in this sexy white column gown by Valentino, accented with the longest, swingiest ruby earrings. It's deceptively simple, and instantly timeless.

A little risque, and maybe actually slightly risky, Janelle Monae's Vera Wang gown was interesting and eye-popping. It's not one of my favorite looks by her, but it was the right move for a presenter and stood out on a night when a lot of people played it very safe.

Danai Gurira's feather-trimmed modern Jason Wu gown is lovely but she had the best accessory with her updo, a tribute to African women that also called to mind the classic looks of Nina Simone. She looks incredibly chic.

Michelle Williams is basically a pro at awards show dressing, and this Chanel gown is a nice addition to her future slide show of best looks. I'm not in love with any single aspect of it, but I can appreciate the glamour of shrouding oneself in a cloud of tulle. It's very bridal!

Monica Barbaro, of Top Gun: Maverick, had one mission for the night: make us take a second look, and have directors thinking of casting her. Mission accomplished! I love the unexpected color combo of deep aubergine and dusty blue, and this Elie Saab silhouette is so graceful. Her makeup was luminous. It's not earth-shattering, but it's not boring, so I'd say she nailed it.

Ariana DeBose played it a bit safe with an art deco-inspired Atelier Versace gown with strong shoulders. I like it, but it feels like another iteration of the same Balmain gown I have seen on every Kardashian in the past few years.

I love Sandra Oh for having fun with color in this billowing saffron Giambattista Valli gown that feels like she's about to lead a cast in a performance of Lysistrata (would watch!!!). She looks like one of the few people having fun with fashion just for the hell of it at this year's Oscars.

Speaking of fun with fashion, Halle Berry just has to do her trademark dress twirl princess moment and I love her for it. She's always loved flowers in fashion, so this white gown trimmed with nude flowers felt very her.

BEST/WORST

Our Hollywood hotties continue to have fun with fashion, which is delightful, but to mixed results. Two of my absolute faves — Riz Ahmed and Pedro Pascal — really tested me with their exaggerated throwbacks. Riz wore a brown-and-pink '70s-inspired shirt with lapels wide enough for takeoffs and landings.

Petro went sans collar or tie in a look I haven't seen since my own prom in 2001, and *checking my notes* nope, I still hate it. But they are both so charming and hot, I have to love them even in these bad looks.

MEH

Since the early aughts, I've been of the opinion that Cate Blanchett can do no wrong sartorially, but this blue velvet drapey look by Louis Vuitton feels a little like phoning it in. And maybe she was because she felt certain she would not be winning the Oscar, so might as well be a little comfy? The color is amazing for her eyes, but all in all, I'd rate this as forgettable.

It's hard to go wrong with nude sparkles, and for the most part, Jamie Lee Curtis looks fabulous in her Dolce & Gabbana, but the clear embellishments meant to mimic corsetry look like plastic straws glued haphazardly to the front. They appear to serve no real purpose other than decoration, and I find them needlessly distracting.

Jennifer Connolly has always favored futuristic, simplified silhouettes and her 2023 Oscar look was no exception. Her gown has what appears to be a grid-patterned panel that feels like a crumb catcher. It's like she has a Lite Brite sheet tucked into her gown.

I want to root for Ana de Armas, but her nomination for a movie so universally disliked was pretty shocking. Her fashion didn't serve her much better; the top half of her Louis Vuitton almost calls to mind Marilyn Monroe's famous nude sparkle dress, but the layers of fabric petals take it in an entirely different direction. It's all very "And I am also here." 

Andrea Riseborough, whose campaign to get nominated is under scrutiny for any potential ethical wrongdoing, also projected "I am also here" energy in this extremely blah pink lace dress that she wore with a leather jacket on the telecast.

You know you're getting old when all of the cool kids are saying this is The Look and all you see is a shaggy mullet on a 1970s groomsman. I have no doubt that Paul Mescal is cooler than me, and that incredibly wide-legged trousers with large bow ties and mullets are the vibe. I just can't say I love it. The overall effect makes him look shorter than I'm sure he is.

WORST

Florence Pugh has been asserting herself as a fashion risk-taker, with a focus on having elements that feel a bit incongruous. That could certain describe this "dressing up in mommy's closet" look that combines a billowing opera coat quite similar to that of Allison Williams, worn over a black mini with glam rock platform shoes and an "edgy" septum piercing. I like elements, but it just isn't coming together for me.

Where would we be without Jessie Buckley, who consistently blesses us with her refusal to play it safe. I actually love how dedicated she is to defying any conventional notions of "good." She gave us a vibe that could best be described as Leeloo from The Fifth Element costumed by Edward Gorey. She looks like she's about to star in a very punk staging of A Doll's House (would watch!!!). 

At this point I legit love Rooney Mara's commitment to looking like a ghost cursed to haunt awards shows for all her days. Will we ever solve the mystery that keeps her trapped forevermore in dishwater-colored gowns? With its gathered train, this Alexander McQueen gown gives the effect of choosing to wear not the gown you selected, but the dry cleaner's bag it came in.

Zoe Saldana chose a vintage slip-inspired Fendi gown with some truly bizarre shapes, like panels of satin drifting apart the way Pangea split into the continents we know today. Worst of all, it's super boring and she's too fabulous to look boring.