Monday, April 4, 2022

Fashion Review: Grammys 2022

Grammy's AFTER the Oscars? Not a fan. But I do love that the Grammy red carpet always offers an opportunity to take the fashion road less traveled, in ways that both delight and befuddle. It's almost a bigger sin to be conventionally tasteful than it is to be wackadoodle. There's a fine line, though, between wacky fashion that's daring and wacky fashion that's costume. Let's get into it. 

Best Dressed


The smile really says it all, doesn't it? It's been such a pleasure to see Lil Nas X defy anyone who believed he was going to be a one-hit wonder and simultaneously come into his own as an artist in the most beautiful, honest way. He was performing in Vegas and I love this futuristic Elvis-meets-King of Pop-meets-Dolly Parton's butterflies ensemble by Balmain. It's perfect for the occasion and perfect for him and you can tell he loves it.


Hot pink was the color of the night, and I'm not mad at it. This rose gold-and-hot-pink ruffly confection by Gucci is a spiritual cousin to Jessica Chastain's Oscars gown, and this feels as equally appropriate for a Ginger Rogers/Fred Astaire routine as it does for the Grammys red carpet. St. Vincent has the stature to pull off just about anything.


Doja Cat was giving us alien glamour with her 90s-meets-futuristic spiky hair and her barely there seafoam Versace gown. It's quintessentially her, which is to say provocative, irreverent but still pretty.


If you can pull off 1992 bondage Versace originally modeled by Christy Turlington, by God, do it. Dua Lipa debuted platinum locks perfectly paired with an oxblood lip and stack of bangles. It was a great outfit for a presenter, past winner and present pop queen. 


I'm a sucker, and I can't help it. When confronted with voluminous ruffly highlighter-pink petals, I simply cannot resist. Chrissy Teigen looked luminous in this cherry blossom of a dress by Nicole + Felicia Couture.


Carrie Underwood usually plays it pretty safe with metallic or black dresses, so I thought this pillowy saffron Dolce & Gabbana gown was a nice change of pace and the effect of the color growing richer as the fabric descends is so lovely. It's such a happy color. 


With Billy Porter, it's never just the mere fabric. It's always a full story that he tells with his movement, his styling, his accessories. I love this ruffled oversized button-down shirt and pants combo by Valentino, but what really makes the entire look sing is the swipe of blue lipstick. It is just the right amount of shock and awe. The silver accessories are also unexpected, but add so much. 


Lady Gaga does character dressing with the best of them, and as someone who also likes to cosplay my way through life, I appreciate how she matches her fashion to the assignment. In this case, she was going to be paying tribute to Tony Bennett, so she came in Armani Prive fit for Grace Kelly. I like the little swipe of the black neckline that looks like the flourish of a pen. 


Halsey also served up an Old Hollywood femme fatale vibe in a trendy velvet bustier and long skirt, topped with an incredible hat. 


Chloe Bailey redeemed her underwhelming Oscars look with this beautiful disco ball of a gown and cape by Valentino. She looks ready to be the true dancing queen. 


Saweetie found a way to make the current peek-a-boob trend look classy as evening wear with this hot pink bra top and full skirt by Valentino, accented with long, long gloves. This color is great on her.


SZA managed to hobble her way around on crutches while still managing a peachy-nude tulle train. She looks like a goddess of spring in this explosion of florals by Jean Paul Gaulthier.


Megan Thee Stallion has the energy of a jungle cat, so her Roberto Cavalli tiger-and-leopard gown felt entirely fitting. She is ready to hunt her prey. 


I didn't care for Olivia Rodrigo's red carpet dress, but I loved the vintage-vibe slip dress trimmed with shirred chiffon, fishnets and platform combat boots she wore to perform. You can draw a straight line from Courtney Love's baby doll dresses to this performance, and whether her fans know that history or not, it's nice to see the nod.


This is really what I'm looking for from my rock stars, and I appreciate Michelle Zauner's haute couture Valentino gown looks like she might be playing a dahlia in a school play. This is the place to do it. She looks like sunshine! 


It was really Jon Batiste's night, and he wore progressively more dazzling and spectacular fashions throughout the show. I really like how this diamond-patterned sequined Dolce & Gabbana suit almost looks like a graphic snakeskin print. 


God help me, I love Travis Barker's hot pink Givenchy jacket that truly looks like it's the one Audrey Hepburn wears in Breakfast at Tiffany's. The way he's holding the sunglasses just so — I would not be surprised if he can recite Holly Golightly's whole speech about the Mean Reds. 

Best/Worst

If you're new around here, the Best/Worst category exists for something that is, ostensibly, bad but it is so undeniably ballsy and mirthful, you can't help but giggle.


Justin Bieber wore what must be Shaquille O'Neal's Balenciaga suit with Crocs fit for a Transformer and a hot pink beanie and yet...can I be mad at it when one of my very favorite things in rock history is David Byrne's giant gray suit in Stop Making Sense? I have no way of knowing if Justin even gets that reference, but like...what if he does??? Strange as it ever was.


Dillon Francis, a producer and DJ, did the absolute least and there's that dark part of me that is delighted by someone bringing their own snacks to the ceremony. Listen, if you're probably not going to win anything or ever be on camera, why NOT chow down on some Little Bites muffins from Walgreens? I'm impressed he even got in and security didn't say, you know, "Dude, this is a private event you're wandering into."


If you've ever asked yourself, "But what if Ursula the Sea Witch attended the Grammy's," never fear, I now know, thanks to Spice and her glorious green wig and sea of red ruffles that looks not so much attached to the dress as conjured, like angry waves.


I agree wholeheartedly with the message — "Love is the weapon" — if not the medium. This woman, Valerie Evigan, may have unintentionally distracted from her statement with her striped bun and ponytail combo, inflamed sleeves, orange carry-on purse and neon bodice. More is more but is the most the most?

Good


I like the idea of turning a fashion trope on its head with an unconventional fabric, like a vinyl-look take on a pink Material Girl gown. Tinashe, in my opinion, didn't quite nail the styling, but it's a fun gown. 


Tiffany Haddish wore one of her personal best gowns in this beautiful silver-and-gold sequined Prada. She's glowing, and I love the fact it looked as good from the front as from the back with the large bow. 


At this point, I've seen just about every variation on the quicksilver sequined gown, but I love the subtle interest of the cutout sides on Snoh Aalegra's Versace gown. It's sexy, but sly, and well-designed to emphasize all her assets. 


I was not familiar with Emonee LaRussa, but she's apparently an acclaimed motion graphics artist. What I like is her adventurous take on accessories — a headband halo straight out of the Renaissance and a giant pearl purse (my dream!). 


Leon Bridges managed to combine the best of his home state of Texas and the best of Vegas Elvis in this gold-embellished white suit with matching boots. I don't know if it's 100% working, but I like the gumption.


This feels a little casual for the Grammy's, but I was happy to see Maren Morris look like herself and not a Khloe Kardashian lookalike. This is a great take on couple dressing, complementary but not overly matchy-matchy. 


Sean Paul understands one of the shortcuts to a successful fashion look is black-and-white, mixed and remixed in complementary ways. I like this chalked coat/printed pant/platform Chucks combo a shocking amount.


Now, THAT is a fit. Elle King's bell-bottomed, flouncy-sleeved Christian Siriano suit is a model of good tailoring. It looks rock and roll. 

MEH


It can't be easy to pick a color scheme to color coordinate seven outfits around, but BTS consistently baffles me with their choices. This time we got brown and lavender — it feels like ugly brown suits are really having a moment — with Postal Service blue and slick, clean white. I do like that just one of them ever gets a gigantic flower accessory.


Maybe I'm an old fuddy duddy but this cartoonishly simulated beaded cleavage on a pink and black Vivienne Westwood gown feels a little too Hot Topic prom to me. I generally haven't been the biggest fan of Olivia Rodrigo's red carpet looks, but I think as she continues to evolve, she'll find her way.


Billie Eilish wore a Matrix take on a kimono by Rick Owens with combat boots and although I'm envious of her ability to find increasingly adventurous ways to be comfortable, I wasn't super in love with this look. I liked her Taylor Hawkins tribute t-shirt better!


Cynthia Erivo rarely missteps but I wasn't blown away by this zip-up robe gown over sequins. It might be the world's fanciest choir robe. It's not bad, it's just not my fave.


Remember when some guy from your high school insisted on getting the 1940's-style zoot suit for prom and thought it was the *coolest?* That's what Finneas reminds me of in his formal zoot suit pajamas by Gucci. I like the big fake orchid to lend some visual interest, but without it, this would be a great big blah.


H.E.R loves a Dundas jumpsuit, but I'm distracted by the visible seams in the midsection. I wish it had sequins all over the pants. She looks like she's going to be playing the Sun in a triumphant finale of "Annie." 


Theoretically, you can't go wrong with gray Dior Haute Couture, but the seams on the bustline of Rachel Zegler's dress just aren't terribly flattering. I wish it had more of a sweetheart neckline and the sleeves sat higher on her arms, rather that cut across her bust this way. I do LOVE her makeup and bob, however. This is really a close but no cigar look. 


This Gucci on Jared Leto is a LOT OF LOOK. It's 70% Waylon Jennings, with a little Brian Boitano thrown in with the sequined lace. The mix you never saw coming.  


Jimme Allen is giving me bandleader action hero, equally ready to play a ballroom or slide to home base. His shoes look both mesmerizing and very uncomfortable.

Worst Dressed


Yola here is captured mid-morph from beast to woman, and truthfully, I kind of love it. Furry beast arms and chopstick hair, roaring down the red carpet? Why the heck not. Who says we can't have Animorphs couture? 


There's daring fashion, and then there's fully coming in a Pokemon costume, and that's where we are with singer-songwriter Tayla Parx (writer of "Thank U, Next" and "High Hopes"). She looks like she had to hustle over to the ceremony after finishing a shift as a mascot at Universal Studios.


Li Saumet, a Colombian singer, looked like a cartoon come to life and honestly, there's part of me that just loves the complete confusion it must have caused all night. Her mask is like a cotton-candy interpretation of ancient Colombian masks, topping a pink flamingo dress and highlighter yellow sneaks. It's giving me Masked Singer, as though she wandered into the wrong auditorium.


I know the 90s are back but I don't think anyone really wants this type of puffy shirt and oversized brocade suit look back. Songwriter Ilsey Juber ("Nothing Breaks Like a Heart") looks a little like a down-on-her-luck footman in Amadeus-meets-Elaine Benes in the J. Peterman era. 

Monday, March 28, 2022

Fashion Review: Oscars 2022

I'm cracking up that I've barely touched this "blog" in a year beyond red carpet rundowns, but that's life in the age of Instagram, innit? 

I can't remember an Oscars that felt weirder to me. After no televised Golden Globes, I *forgot* to watch the SAGs and I've watched most of the nominated films from the comfort of my own home. 

Personally, "Belfast" and "Coda" brought me the most joy, "Dune" and "The Power of the Dog" were most visually stunning, and I loved the careful way Spielberg balanced updating the original material of "West Side Story." But that's not what you're here to read about. You're here for FASHION!

More than ever, it felt like the rulebook of Oscar dressing has been shredded and we are seeing more daring moments than safe. Let's see who stuck the landing. 

BEST DRESSED


I never thought I'd be this delighted by pants, a bustier and a cape, but Ariana DeBose served this look up and down the red carpet with the confidence of a sure bet. You cannot go wrong in Valentino red. It was modern, sexy and yet classic.


I'd like to think Zendaya and her team were inspired by the iconic Sharon Stone button down with a satin skirt combo — no one did high-low better than Sharon in the nineties — but this Maison Valentino version turns the heat up a notch. As always, she gives perfect face, the accessories game is unmatched and she managed to make something as awkward as a tiny satin button down with slits on the side look fantastic.


Lupita Nyong'o never, ever misses. This tinsel magic of a dress by Prada befits the glimmery goddess she is.


I love the Old Hollywood-meets-Vegas vibe of Jessica Chastain's Gucci in an unexpected color combo of copper and lilac. It had several pretty details, from the frothy ties at the shoulder to the fluffy floral ruffles at the bottom of the skirt. She accessorized with beautiful chandelier earrings and a high pony to keep it fun.


Venus came dressed like her Grecian namesake, looking like Wonder Woman in this sleek and sexy Elie Saab. I loved seeing her dazzle.


Zoe Kravitz went for classically pretty in this dusty pink column by Saint Laurent and a perfect Audrey Hepburn bang-and-bun combo. The winning accessory here is bone structure. 


Truthfully, Nicole always looks good and this very formal...mushroom is not one of my favorites of her many, many spectacular fashion moments. It's fine, and on-trend. This necklace, however, is what dreams are made of. That art nouveau sprinkling of diamonds was so elegant and eye-catching, and I also love that she wore a watch! 


Kodi Smit-McPhee has an otherworldly, starman look to him, so it seems only fitting that he wore this impeccably tailored Bottega Veneta suit that gives me serious David Bowie early 70's vibes. The color brings out his eyes and I can't get over the cut of that double-breasted jacket with the loooooooong waist. 

Simu Liu is so charming, and he looked scrumptious in this red Donatella Versace suit with gold buttons. We've seen men become so adventurous on the red carpet, and this felt especially right.

BEST/WORST


Listen, this was genuinely a delight. I mean...Timothee is not wearing a shirt. To the Oscars. He probably couldn't enter my local grocery store without a shirt, but he was able to attend the Oscars without one. But damn, this boy can show up in a  Louis Vuitton lace-trimmed, sequined cropped jacket, no shirt and a diamond necklace, looking like he's about to front an INXS cover band, and STILL look incredible. 


In all honestly, I mostly hated Kristen Stewart's Chanel look, but I know the internet loved its irreverence. My beef with it — aside from the general no-effs-given of it all — is that with little tweaks, it could be so much better. I've SEEN better versions of this. I'm picturing it with an oversized tuxedo blazer and maybe sequined shorts. Maybe pick between the bed head and last night's makeup. She only wore the heels for part of the way and then switched to loafers, and I actually think that could be more fun. It just feels a little anxious to convey "I don't care about these things" and then she said the opposite in every interview. I did, however, love her after-party look.


Wesley Snipes wore a whole lotta look, and I commend him because it's definitely not boring and I do actually love this shade of plum on him. But when you start to unpack what you're seeing, it's a little bit medieval knight, a little bit schoolboy uniform, a little bit court jester. The little flare to the shorts is almost giving me Oompa Loompa. Love him for it!


Sure as the sun will rise, Diane Warren will be nominated, will put on her signature wacky suit and booties, and trot down the red carpet only to go home empty-handed. This shade is best described as "green screen." At least she has her boom box purse! 

GOOD

This Chanel gown on Penelope Cruz was just not quite hitting on all cylinders for me. I really like the bow and the cut of the halter neckline. I'm a little less sold on the Renaissance Festival bodice that feels a little incongruous with the bow, but I think it mostly works and she looked lovely.


Megan Thee Stallion wore a shimmery blue triumph of masterful pleats by Gaurav Gupta. The shade is on-trend periwinkle, the flounces feel like a teaser to her performance with the Encanto cast, and the bust fit is an engineering marvel. 


Alana Haim, of "Licorice Pizza" and of course, Haim, wore an elegant and pretty scale-patterned Louis Vuitton that feels like a perfect fit with her California cool energy. It's not earth-shattering for the Oscars, but it gets the job done.


Emilia Jones, of "Coda," spends the whole film in boxy flannels and jorts so it is the right move to show up to the biggest night in film in a sexy cutout Louis Vuitton gown to put casting directors on notice. Her coral blush and lipstick are particularly perfect with this nude-and-gold look.


Catriona Balfe managed to carefully walk the line between safe and interesting in her ruffled white satin Louis Vuitton. It definitely seems like we are seeing a big resurgence of 80's ruffles, but this feels just modern enough. The real hero is that diamond bow necklace.


Every year someone has to come in full pretty, pretty princess glam and this year it's Lily James in frothy pink tulle and lace by Versace. This is a fantastic fit and her makeup was especially pretty. It seems designed to remind everyone she has played both Cinderella and Pamela Anderson — she contains multitudes.


This pleated silver Dior is a personal best for Olivia Colman. It's definitely very covered up, but it gives just enough dazzle to feel appropriate for the event and she looks lovely.


God love Rita Moreno for bringing full 60's kooky glam to the red carpet with her feathered hat. She's giving us an incredible off-the-shoulder moment in Carolina Herrera at 90. NINETY! Please let me be this woman at 90.


One of my favorite Oscars tropes is the young ingenue having her first Cinderella-at-the-Ball fashion moment. Everyone wants to feel like a princess just once, and the stars of "King Richard" both wore lovely pastels perfect for their age. Saniyya Sidney wore Armani Prive...

...while her on-screen sister Demi Singleton wore lavender Miu Miu that was elegant, young and pretty.

MEH


I was a much younger woman when I first saw Jada's Jean Paul Gaulthier gown, before the slap heard round the world. My initial reaction was that it's ... a lot. It feels more Wizard of Oz costume to me than fashion, but I can't deny the artistry of all those pintucks and ruffles. It brings drama befitting the drama. 


I LOVE Tracee and I love this Carolina Herrera dress in concept, but this bust situation is no one's friend. Aside from having zero support, the dress has darts in the middle of the cups that is causing the fabric to pucker in very odd ways. That length is hard for anyone to pull off but, here, especially feels like it shortens her body. She has enough charm oozing out of her that she can pull off a sack, but in this case, she deserved better. 


Kirsten Dunst looks perfectly lovely in this been-there-seen-that red ruffled dress. It's vintage Lacroix, which is fun. We have seen some variation of this motif on the red carpet of every Oscars for at least 12 years, and it's always pretty, but I would have liked to see something a little more special for her. 


Marlee Matlin is a babe, and I actually thought this Monique Lhuillier seemed a little mature for her. Don't get me wrong, she looks gorgeous and I love her Old Hollywood waves. The savior to keep this from being too boring is the beautiful blue necklace.


This Gucci Victorian duvet on Billie Eilish was probably very, very comfortable. I hope this is what Ketanji Brown Jackson wears when she takes her seat on the Supreme Court, because these are the most dramatic judge's robes I've ever seen.

I really found myself adrift trying to decide how to feel about David Oyelowo's busy yellow suit. It's interesting, for sure. Is it good? I don't know. Is it bad? I also don't know. It is meant to look like a field of sunflowers in tribute to Ukraine? Let's hope so.

WORST DRESSED


Not every first-time nominee would have the guts to tell their hairstylist, "I want Robyn's haircut but with more of an uneven edge and I want it to be the exact color of Kraft mac and cheese," and then tell their make-up artist, "I'm going for washed out," and then choose from the rack a wrinkly satin nude gown. It's a real color story and that story is about a person who is very ill after a night out in Stockholm. 


Maggie Gyllenhaal really tested me with this Schiaparelli couture. I know a lot of folks on Twitter had a field day with the austere straight lines of it, but I'm more distracted by the gold blobs that feel like a Rorschach test. I see: an elephant trunk, crossed fingers, flowers, a cat, a fortune cookie. Like, genuinely, what does it all mean. Are they supposed to be shapes, or amorphous gold thingies? Make it make sense.


There's fashion, and then there's skin for skin's sake, and Halle and Chloe Bailey have seemingly been out to prove they are Women now for a while. Believe me, we get it. As actual designs, these dresses feel like something sold on the racks of whatever weird "going-out" club clothes store your mall had in the nineties.